This little settlement around Lake Jempang, in the lake-studded East Kalimantan hinterland, has a traditional Dayak longhouse which has been turned into lodges for visitors. The grave of a Benuaq Dayak chief lays aside the hamlets’s only only road. Visitors are usually given a traditional Benuaq Dayak welcome. The trip over Tanjung Isuy over the Mahakam River is along but interesting one past floating village and forest scenery. If you are lucky, you can watch a belian, or witch doctor. Dressed in skirt of leaves, cures his patients at night by performing the rites prescribed by ancestors to the frenzied accompaniment of gongs and drums. Many Benuaq Dayaks still prefer the old cures to the modern ones at the government public health centers which are nearby.